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Why fall is the season accessories actually earn their keep

By November you are covered from jaw to boot. Your face, your hands and whatever you hung on the outside are all anyone sees.

Somewhere around the middle of October, getting dressed stops being any fun. The bright things move to the back of the wardrobe, the wool comes out, and for the next five months you put on a version of the same dark, warm, sensible outfit and feel faintly invisible in it. If that is familiar, you are not doing anything wrong. The season has quietly taken away most of the tools you were using, and nobody really warns you.

Kerane Marcellus wrote about this for Who What Wear, and hers is the honest account of it. She grew up in the South, where there was more or less one season all year, moved to New York, and dreaded getting dressed for her first proper fall — until she worked out that she could rely on accessories to do the heavy lifting. Her clothes are basics. The accessories are what make all that layering worth the effort.

She is right, and it is worth understanding why she is right, because once you can see what the season is doing to your outfits you can stop guessing at the fix.

First, you lose your colour. Summer clothes are thin, and printing on thin cotton is cheap, so summer turns up full of pattern. Wool, denim, leather and cashmere turn up in black, grey, navy, camel and brown — partly the way the dyes behave, mostly because we all buy coats to last and play it safe when we do. You did not choose a beige winter. It gets chosen for you, in about three weeks. So from October to March, any colour on you is colour you put there on purpose, and it is nearly always something small.

Then you lose your contrast. A shirt under a knit under a coat feels like three different textures while you are standing at the mirror. From across a room it is one soft mass, and that is usually the moment you catch yourself in a shop window and feel bulky rather than layered. What brings an outfit back into focus is something hard against all that soft — metal, a lens, polished leather. This is the part people get wrong. Reaching for another soft thing, a woolly scarf over the woolly coat, only adds to the mass. A pair of earrings cuts straight through it, and costs a great deal less.

Then you lose your waist. A coat is a rectangle, and it will make you one too, however good the coat is. A belt over the top is the only thing that hands it back. It is the cheapest and most effective change you can make all season, and it is why you keep seeing women belting their outerwear instead of shopping for a better coat.

And then most of you disappears. In July an accessory can go anywhere — an anklet, a charm on your bag, bracelets up your arm. By November you are covered from jaw to boot, and what is left on show is a face inside a collar and two hands coming out of sleeves. Earrings, something at your throat, a hat, your rings, your watch. That is the entire visible set. It is also why the same earrings feel like so much more in November than they did in June: there is nothing else competing for the space.

So when you are actually shopping, the brief is much narrower than "elegant fall accessories", and being narrow will save you money. Near your face, or at your waist, and a different texture from wool. That rules out a good deal of what gets recommended to you every autumn. A fine chain vanishes into a crew neck. A dark leather bag against a dark wool coat is invisible, and it stays invisible at any price. Earrings with a bit of scale, one scarf with real colour in it, and a belt that will fit over a coat will change more of your outfits than anything else you could spend the same money on.

One last thing in their favour. A summer accessory might get thirty outings. A pair of earrings you reach for every working day from October to March will get well past a hundred. This is the season you wear the same few things constantly — which makes it the season it is genuinely worth owning a few good ones.

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