EnglishEspañol

Building a signature instead of following a season

The women who wear accessories best are not chasing trends. They picked a thing and kept it.

Built on: Whatever you already wear. That is the point.

The most striking accessory wearers are almost never the most fashionable ones. They are the women who settled on something — always red lipstick and silver, always a scarf, always big earrings — and repeated it until it stopped being a choice and became a fact about them. That is a strategy available at any age and it gets more effective the longer you run it.

Scale is the practical adjustment worth making, and it has nothing to do with age being a limit. Larger pieces read as deliberate; small delicate ones can read as tentative next to a strong face and grey or white hair, which has more visual weight than people account for. Bigger earrings, a wider cuff, a heavier chain — the same jewellery vocabulary, one size up.

Colour near the face is the other lever. A silk scarf at the neck in a strong colour does more for how you look in a photograph than any amount of jewellery, and it is adjustable in a way that a necklace is not.

On brooches specifically: this is the season's most-cited jewellery item, and it is also the piece most likely to already be in a drawer in your house. Before buying one, go and look. Inherited brooches are almost always better made than anything at this price point, and wearing one high on a coat lapel is exactly what is being shown.

The pieces